9 min read
How to Get Around Indonesia by Road: Drivers, Scooters and Staying Safe
Most of Indonesia is reached by road. Here is how to hire a driver, ride a scooter legally, and use Grab and Gojek without losing money or your licence.
On the Ground Indonesia
Insights, updates and local perspectives to better understand Indonesia as it evolves.
All articles
10 min read
The Banda Islands: Slow Travel in Indonesia's Original Spice Islands
For two centuries these ten islands in the Banda Sea were the world's only source of nutmeg. Reaching them is still slow, and that is exactly the point.
8 min read
Your Phone in Indonesia in 2026: IMEI Registration, SIM Cards and eSIMs
Indonesia blocks phones that are not registered on its network. Most tourists do not need to worry, but the ones who do can lose service after a few days.
10 min read
Raja Ampat Permits in 2026: Marine Park Fees, SIPARI and What You Pay
Raja Ampat's entry permit went up on 3 August 2026. Here is what the marine park fee and visitor ticket cost, and how to register through the SIPARI system.
10 min read
How to Choose and Book a Homestay in Indonesia
Homestays are the backbone of slow travel in Indonesia. How to tell losmen from wisma, find the good ones, book direct and behave well as a house guest.
10 min read
Bali Is Running Dry: The Water Story Behind the Record Crowds
Tourism accounts for roughly 65% of Bali's water use, lakes are falling and wells are running dry. What the 2026 water squeeze means for slow travellers.
11 min read
West Sumatra's Highlands: Bukittinggi, Harau Valley and the Minangkabau World
Two hours from Padang, the Minangkabau highlands trade beach crowds for cliffs, rice terraces and market towns. A slow route through West Sumatra's interior.
8 min read
Visiting Komodo National Park in 2026: Fees, Permits and the New Visitor Cap
Komodo National Park introduces a strict daily visitor cap and compulsory advance booking in 2026. A guide to the new rules, fees and how to plan your visit.
8 min read
Java's Rail Renaissance: Why Slow Travellers Are Taking the Train in 2026
From the Whoosh bullet train to scenic expresses, Java's railways are having a moment. Why the train is the slow way to see Indonesia's heart.
8 min read
How to Snorkel and Dive Responsibly in Indonesia
Indonesia sits at the heart of the world's richest reefs, and they are under pressure. A slow traveller's guide to snorkelling and diving without harming them.
8 min read
Sumba: Indonesia's Island of Peaked Roofs, Ikat and Empty Beaches
East of Bali in Nusa Tenggara, Sumba keeps an ancient culture of megalithic villages, ikat weaving and horses. A slow-travel guide to a singular island.
8 min read
Climbing Borobudur in 2026: The New Rules, Tickets and Upanat Sandals
Climbing Borobudur is no longer automatic. Here is how the 2026 access rules, the structure ticket, the mandatory guide and the Upanat sandals actually work.
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